11076 Norman Rd., Brockway, Michigan, 48097, USA +1-737-366-3756 contact@crooked-bend.com
FAQs

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What is the best fall food plot?

Branson Buffalo Blend - This is our number 1 selling fall food plot seed blend containing turnips, radish, clover, cereal grain rye and wheat. Medium to high light is recommended. This is the mix that should be planted in late summer (around August in Michigan) and will produce an extremely preferred food source for you Whitetail deer and turkey.

 

What is the best spring food plot?

Our “Basic Buck Blend” contains sunflowers, soybean, corn, crimson and red clover and this was designed to be planted in the spring and then you can plant your fall food plot mix (like our Branson Buffalo Blend) directly into the same area. Basic Buck Blend helps to set patterns of whitetail deer and turkey early in the spring season and also supports pollinators like butterflies and honey bees. It also offers beautiful scenery with the large growing sunflowers and beautiful low growing crimson and red clovers. 

 

What is the best food plot seed for winter?

Last Resort Blend - This premium food plot seed mix is carefully formulated with hardy cereal grains, ideal for planting as late as October. It thrives in medium light conditions and is designed to germinate in extremely cold temperatures, ensuring steady growth throughout the winter season.

 

Are any food plot mixes a perennial blend?

Four Clover Combo– This perennial mix thrives year after year, growing thick and low to create the perfect ground cover for your walking or ATV trails. It’s exceptionally durable and adaptable, flourishing in both deeply shaded and sunny spots. A reliable and resilient choice for any terrain!

 

What is the best food plot seed for shady areas?

Four Clover Combo– This perennial mix thrives year after year, growing thick and low to create the perfect ground cover for your walking or ATV trails. It’s exceptionally durable and adaptable, flourishing in both deeply shaded and sunny spots. A reliable and resilient choice for any terrain!

 

How much seed do I need?

The amount of seed needed for plant depends on the method of planting (broadcasting or seed drilling). Also, the seed species in the blend being planting will influence the amount needed for proper growing. Below we have noted each seed blend and how much is needed per acre of planting. 

  • Branson Buffalo Blend= 25 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 17 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Basic Buck Blend= 50 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 34 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Last Resort Blend= 200 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 133 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Four Clover Combo= 17 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 11 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Dwight’s Beets= 12 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 8 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Sunflower Fields= 20 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 13 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Memas Moo Mix= 75 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 50 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Blue Eagle Bluegrass= 225 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 150 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Pollinator Promoter Blend= 20 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 13 pounds per acre when drilling.
  • Wild Hummingbird Blend= 18 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 12 pounds per acre when drilling.

 

What blends are throw and grow / no till?

We design all of our seed blends to be used with no till and throw ‘n grow planting method techniques. We believe that no tilling provides the best growing results and have successful grown all of our seeds on our proving grounds using these practices. No till and throw ‘n grown planting methods open the door for all outdoors men and women to be able to experience the satisfaction of growing beautiful foot plots and flowers without the need of expensive equipment.

 

Do I need heavy equipment?

No, heavy equipment is not required. Although , having things like four wheelers, tractors and attachments can make the job easier; they are not absolutely necessary to grow lush and full food plots.

 

Do I need to till my soil?

No, we do not recommend tilling soil unless there is serve topographical issues with the ground (like ruts or divots). Turning over the soil prior to planting can allow old weed seeds from year’s past to have a fighting chance at beginning germination. There are weed seeds in the soil that could be as much as 50 or 60 years old, still alive and well, but didn’t have access to survival in years past and thus, were unable to grow. By going through the process of tilling, these seeds get a chance to breathe and potentially sprout into major problems in the soil they’ve been trying to establish in for perhaps decades. Air is critical, but so is the proper ground and moisture levels that these weed seeds may have never been able to achieve. By disking the soil, or simply turning it over, you give chance to the seed bank that has been patiently waiting their chance to take over your planting area.

 

Doesn’t tilling soil kill the weeds growing in it?

Many people have the misconception that tilling the soil will totally remove all of the weeds growing in it. Half of this theory is correct, as tilling will indeed destroy the majority of all currently growing plants. However, what most people do not realize is that there is a massive bank of weed seeds laying dormant under all soil. These seeds can be decades old, still alive, simply waiting to be risen up to the proper ground and moisture levels to finally begin germination. When you till or disc your soil then, you disturb the mentioned seed bank and activate its germination. (This is even more the case with newly formed food plots areas.)

 

How do I mix glyphosate for my sprayer?

We recommend the generic glyphosate from your local tractor store because it’s cheap and is equally as effective and the fancy stuff. The proper mix ratio for glyphosate, surfactant, and water to kill weeds can vary depending on the product concentration and the type of weeds you're targeting. Here's a general guideline:

For Glyphosate (41% concentration):

  • **Glyphosate**: 2-3 ounces (about 60-90 ml) per gallon of water for most general weed control.
  • **Surfactant**: If the glyphosate product doesn’t already contain a surfactant, add 0.5 to 1 ounce (about 15-30 ml) per gallon of water.

For Tougher Weeds:

  • **Glyphosate**: 4-6 ounces (about 120-180 ml) per gallon of water.
  • **Surfactant**: Same as above, 0.5 to 1 ounce (15-30 ml) per gallon of water.

Mixing Instructions:

  1. Fill your sprayer with half the desired amount of water.
  2. Add the measured amount of glyphosate.
  3. Add the surfactant.
  4. Fill the sprayer with the remaining water and mix thoroughly.

Always refer to the specific product label for exact recommendations, as the concentration of active ingredients can vary between products. Also, ensure you wear proper protective gear when handling and applying these chemicals.

 

When do I spray my plot?

As long as you are using a glyphosate based solution then you can spray the planting area the same day that you plant your seed (just wait for the spray liquid to dry). Or you can spray days or weeks before sowing your seeds. However if you are tilling/disking your soil then, you must wait about two weeks to let any newly exposed weed seed bank to germinate. Then spray those newly formed weeds with herbicide. The herbicide will knock out those newly sprouted weeds within 12-14 days. At this point your plot is “neutralized” and your food plot seeds can grow without competing weed plants (just as long as you do not disc or till the soil again.) Remember glyphosate based solution only reacts with plant’s green foliage and leaves. As this is the case, be sure to apply to the leaves of the intrusive weed plants.

 

How to I kill weeds in a clover/alfalfa food plot but keep the clover/alfalfa safe?

To kill grass in clover/alfalfa: Use Clethodim and a surfactant & ammonium sulfate (if you want to condition the water).  Use 2.5 pounds or 20 oz can of ammonium sulfate per 15 gal.  (Rule is 17 lbs per 100 gal). If you use a 50 gal sprayer use 65 ounces of ammonium sulfate. Mix in 1% crop oil. (This is 20 oz per 15 gal sprayer, or 64 oz per 50 gal sprayer). See Note #1 below on crop oil.  Use 12-16oz of Clethodim per acre depending on grass volume.  How many acres do you spray per tank? Think about this.  A good rate is 20 - 25 gal per acre. Make sure to soak everything green.

To kill broadleaf weeds in clover/alfalfa: Use 1-3 quarts (32oz per quart) per Butyrac 200 24D-B. If you mow it, use less. I'd go with 2 qts. per acre. See Note #2 below.  Use crop oil again, but not a necessity with Butyrac.  However, if you do again, use 1% or 20 oz per 15 gal tank, or 64 oz per 50 gal sprayer. 

 

What setting do I put my seed spread at?

Unfortunately, spreaders are not built consistently or universally enough to be able to recommend an accurate hopper outlet settings. Even the same model and the same company’s spreader can vary significantly from one to the next. What we can tell you is that you want to have your spreader opened up just barely enough so that the largest seed in your seed mix will just pass through. For example: when broadcasting Branson Buffalo Blend, the largest seed in the mix is the cereal grain rye (which are not very big). That being said, you will just barely need to open your spreader’s hopper outlet. For reference, we usually end up with a hopper outlet setting somewhere between 1 and 2 on our Earths Way over-the-shoulder seed spreader.

Pro tip= It’s better to go light and have to make more passes over your food plot versus seeding too heavy which resulting in over-seeding and smaller area coverage. 

 

What setting do I put my seed drilled at?

There is not one default answer to this question as all seed drills have different settings from manufacturer to manufacturer. In addition, these setting will depend on the seeds that are included in the blend that you are sowing. However, all seed drills come with a chart that will describe the proper setting for each seed type (based on size and density of the seed breed). You will want to choose the setting selection of the largest seed of the mix that you will be planting. If you need help evaluating your seed drills reference chart then please send a photo of it to us via email or text and we will be happy to assist you further.

 

How do I get free shooting targets?

These downloadable targets are indeed free and do not have to purchased. Just go to the desired shooting target web page and simply click on the PDF icon to download it. Then, open up the file that you downloaded and print it out on your printer. All of these targets are designed to be printed on a standard 8”x11” letter paper.  

 

Do you offer pick up?

Currently, we do not offer a pickup option. The good news is that our southeast Michigan customers customer get their orders via UPS within one or two business days. 

 

How much fertilizer do I need?

When it comes to fertilizer there is not a one size fits all solution. Nutrient levels in soil can extremely vary from one acre to the next. To ensure accuracy and have guidance a soil sample test should be done and the fertilizer chosen should be selected based off of these results. Adding fertilizer without knowing the current levels of elements in your soil is a lot like trying to hit a bullseyes blindfolded. Plus, you can end up wasting hundreds of dollars on fertilizer that you do not need. So get a soil test done and go from there!

 

When do I apply fertilizer?

Applying fertilizer when plants in your growing area are actively growing and about 4”-6” tall is an effective strategy to ensure that the nutrients are utilized efficiently by the plants. When plants reach 4”-6” in height, they are typically in the early stages of active growth. This is when they need a substantial amount of nutrients to develop strong roots, stems, and leaves. Fertilizing at this stage supports this growth spurt. Applying fertilizer at this height ensures that the nutrients are available when the plants can absorb them most effectively. At this stage, the plants' root systems are sufficiently developed to take up nutrients from the soil, but they are not yet so large that they have exhausted the existing soil nutrients. By fertilizing at this key growth stage, you provide the plants with the nutrients they need during a critical period of development, which can lead to a more productive and healthy food plot.

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